Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Chiang Kong - Pak Beng - Luang Prabang - Vang Vieng

Time flies when you are having fun or so the saying goes and it certainly does when you spend two days on a boat down the Mekon as you gently slip into Lao time. The final leg of the Northern Thailand trip was spent on yet another local bus all the way to Chiang Kong. The town serves essentially as a border town to step into Laos. The next morning was confusing as I tried along with about 120 people to obtain a visa. As we were getting on our boat other goods were being unloaded namely loads of squealing caged pigs covered in their own mess. The French couple next to me said it put her off eating pork: enough said!The benches were hard but I was not going to buy a teddy bear pictured cushion so I was very grateful when Jamey and Ariel came to the rescue with a spare for me. We had a relaxing day meandering down the mighty muddy Mekon. It was sad to observe swathes of burnt forests but the untouched scenery was amazing. We all piled off the boat at Pak Beng and I ended up walking up the hill with Angie, as we had not pre-booked, to look at a place together. It turned out that Angie is from Witchurch Canonicorum. Off we went to find a beer after our tedious journey and were invited by some locals to sit at their table. Mr Son, Deth and Cegc kept the beer flowing as we asked questions about their culture. The heavens opened in the jungle that night and we made it home as the first drop fell - impeccable timing. The next day every one had bonded and were chatting away to each other so the 6 hours went much quicker. Claus and John kept me in Whisky as Angie and I discovered who exactly we knew in Bridport. After two days of dodging prominent rocks on the Mekon we arrived in the genteel Luang Prabang with it's beautiful architecture, café culture and tempting supply of shops.Laos is great for being outdoors and I have certainly been out there getting active: cycling, tubing, climbing and walking. The cycling trip in Luang Prabang was a classic. John and Claus hit the whisky not long after we left town and our trip deteriorated further when they found a group of lunching Laos outside singing with their synthesizer and drinking. It was very entertaining and I made sure that I didn't drink too much Beerlao as we had to get back on our bikes. Claus' tyre had already exploded within the first 2 minutes so we didn't want any more biking incidents. The next day we headed out to a gorgeous waterfall called Kuang Si and saw more small villages on the way.The mini van trip (new mode of transport) felt luxurious but cramped for 5 hours as we climbed steep roads and saw precarious bamboo houses perched over sheer drops. We were greeted by neat villages and free roaming children with the odd little boy carrying his sibling in a sling.Vang Vieng is in a lower plateau but surrounded by amazing tree covered cliff faces. We found some bamboo huts across the river from the main town over a wooden home made bridge. It felt like I was finally a backpacker in my minimal hut with only a bed and some inscects for company. The town is great for meeting lots of friendly traveller types and of course to go TUBING. I had the best Sunday ever sat in a tractor inner tube, floating down the river with Rob, Christina, Kier and Kylie. We barely floated 50 meters when we reached for a piece of bamboo to be dragged into the first bar for the first bucket of Vodka. We did make it to the last bar on the course but not the whole way as the distractions are too great: tarzan swings, volley ball and lunch kept us from reaching the final stage and we got our giant donughts and into a tuk tuk back to town. Shame on us.That night me and the tubers got caught in the worst storm ever. As we reached the Bamboo Bar on the little island the wind came from nowhere and we could barely make it inside the tin stucture for some shelter. We waited for an hour for the thunder and lightning to subside but getting back over to my hut on the rickety bridge was very scary. Unfortunately I hadn't closed my windows and my hut was full of water. Wet clothes and bedding isn't much fun when you are already wet and caked in sand. Note to self: always close your windows!

Friday, October 24, 2008

Cambodia

We arrived in Phnom Penh on 2 April and set out for a bit of sightseeing. First stop was the Tuol Sleng Museum (former Khmer Rouge/Pol Pot prison). It was pretty horrific - the cells were tiny, there were shackles and various tortune items in the cells. There were rooms with photos of the prisoners - many were women and children. Out of the 20,000 prisoners only 7 survived.We then went to the Killing Fields which was full of dug up mass graves. There was a very eerie feel to the place as we wandered around. We left there feeling very depressed, it was a very harrowing experience.We spent 2 days in Phnom Penh before heading to Siem Reap. There we spent a whole day going round Angkor Wat which is the largest and most famous Wat in South East Asia. It was pretty amazing, the architecture was stunning. It took us 1.5 hours to get round that one Wat. We visited 5 other temples in the area including the one where Tomb Raider was filmed, that was pretty cool. It had massive trees with roots you could stand in, some trees were growing on top of the temple ruins.It was hard work walking about all day in the heat, it is the hottest country we have been in so far. We rewarded ourselves with several $0.60 beers after that!We went to a wacky bar called the dead fish tower, it had loads of pockets of tables located on staggered floors, almost like suspended platforms at various heights - with no particians or walls! After a few beers that could be very dodgy, 1 too many and you could easily plummet to the ground into the crocodile farm (seriously real huge crocs!)A common theme in both Vietnam and Cambodia is the women and kids often go around in their pyjamas, they go to the supermarket, serve in their shops, have drinks all in their jammies! How great would that be, roll out of bed and go to work withour having to get dressed!Spent 5 days in Cambodia altogether. Next stop is to the Islands of Thailand for a month, heading to Koh Chang first.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Vietnam Sightseeing

Vietnam is still opening up to tourists on an almost daily basis. I have listed some of the more popular local attractions throughout Vietnam below, which will then give you some idea as to how to plan your holiday in this fascinating country.CanthoCantho is the political, economic, cultural and transportation centre of the Mekong Delta. Rice husking mills provide the main source of income and the area is linked to most other main centers in the Mekong Delta via the waterways and road/rail systems.Boat Trips are available that take you across the water or through the local canals on many interesting sightseeing excursions that definitely require a camera. Larger boats venture up the Mekong River and this is a definite MUST DO if you are in the area.Cantonese Congregation Pagoda was built on a different site originally but now stands where it is today. The pagoda occupies a splendid location facing the Cantho River.Central Market is where you should go to stock up on fresh produce either direct from the farms or the fishing grounds nearby.Floating markets are the Delta's prime attractions. Unlike those found in Bangkok, these markets aren't for the benefit of camcorder-toting tourists. Early each morning the Bassac River and its tributaries swell with vendors in sampans, houseboats and longtails jammed with fresh Delta produce: jackfruit, mangosteen, durian, papaya, mango, bananas, pineapple, guava, fresh vegetables and smuggled sundries from cigarettes to shampoo. The best market to visit is about 30 km south of Can Tho in Phung Hiep.Ho Chi Minh Museum is the only museum in the Mekong Delta devoted to this ruler. It is a large museum, if you haven't been to a similar one elsewhere, is worth a visit. Chau DocChau Doc is a riverine commercial centre and is not that far from the Cambodian border. Once known for it's dug-out canoe races it is now better known for it's Cham and Khmer temples in its environs.Chau Doc Church was constructed in 1920 and although small is interesting and for those of the Christian faith they hold mass here seven days a week.Chau Phu Temple was built in 1926 and is decorated with both Vietnamese and Chinese motifs. Inside are funeral tablets with the names and biographical information on the dead.Floating Houses, are well worth a few photos and it's worth it to hire a boat to see them better. Mosques in the area consist of the Chau Giang Mosque and the Murbank Mosque. There are others in the area but those mentioned are the largest,. Visitors are permitted but please respect the faith and do not enter them during 'calls of prayer' which occur 5 times a day unless you are of the Islamic faith. Sam Mountain is the place to go if you want to see dozens of temples, pagodas and the like and is well worth visiting. Located about 6 km from the city. Not only do temples abound but the trek to the top of the mountain is also popular though one can go by motorised vehicle if you so desire. Tay Anh Pagoda is renowned for its fine carvings of hundreds of religious figures most of which are wooden. The building reflects both Hindu and Islamic influences and outside stand a black elephant (with 2 tusks) and a white elephant (with 6 tusks) as well as various monks tombs etc.Temple of Lady Chua Xu faces Sam Mountain not far from the Tay An Pagoda and was founded in the 1820's. The original was built of bamboo, but this has been replaced over the years and the last reconstruction took place in 1972.Tomb of Thoai Ngoc Hau who was a high ranking officer that served the Ngyen lords and later the Nguyen Dynasty is buried here. Nearby are several other tombs of similar officials serving under Thoai Ngoc Hau.Cavern Pagoda also known as Phuoc Dien Tu is about halfway up Sam Mountain and is well worth a visit.DalatThe city of Dalat is the main centre of the Southern Highlands region. In the past it was renowned as a cool, green city with a park-like environment. This is changing fast, as the economy booms and life speeds up. Still, Dalat is definitely worth a visit and it's a good base for trips into the surrounding highlands, which remain tranquil. In Dalat, make sure you visit the Hang Nga Guesthouse & Art Gallery, nicknamed by locals the Crazy House. It's created by artist and architect Mrs Dang Viet Nga (known as Hang Nga).Dalat is famous for its coffee shops, and is extremely popular with domestic tourists and honeymooners. You can fly to Dalat from Ho Chi Minh City. The airport is 30km from town; express buses also link the two cities.The Emperor Bao Dai's Summer Palace is stuffed with interesting art and everyday objects, and is well worth a look. It's also interesting to stroll around the old French Quarter.The Valley of Love, 5km north of the city centre, is a bizarre place where you can hire a paddle boat on the lake or a horse from one of the Dalat Cowboys (no relation to the Dallas Cowboys), who are, indeed, dressed as cowboys. There are some pleasant walks or rides (on horseback or bike) in the countryside around the city, but be aware that areas signposted with a C-sign are off-limits to foreigners.Prenn Falls are worth a visit and are located at the foot of Prenn Mountain Pass. The 10km long pass is on the route from Dalat to Ho Chi Minh City.Further out, you can visit the villages of some of the hill tribes, such as Lat Village and the Chicken Village (with a huge statue of a chicken).

Visting hanoi and sapa

For me to visit a capital city like Hanoi in the north of Vietnam is very different from the typical capitals of S. E Asia. In Hanoi you will find lots of communist influences (as in the hammer and sickle symbols, statue of Lenin, Vietnamese red flags with the distinctive yellow star in the middle and reverence for Ho Chi Minh) set amidst often colonial French buildings and the typical Vietnamese tube building! They build many of their of their buildings in what we can describe as a tube style where the width of the building is narrow but the depth of the building can be very long. Staying at the old quarters which is where all the hustle and bustle is. At first you will be confused with the various streets and roads but after some time and with the help of a good map you can orientate yourself and walk around to find streets which seem to specialize in nothing but paper, in artwork, in metal products and even in coffins. The curious thing is that there does not appear to be any KFC, McDonalds, 7-11 or cinemas around either! Food is not a problem in Vietnam and you can get good and cheap food ( a meal can costs less than VND 10000) from the dirty road side stalls to the nicer cafes and restaurants. If you have no problem eating from the dirty road side stalls where people sit on small low stools(why they all have the low stools I don’t know), and eat their fantastic beef/pork noodles etc and then wipe their mouth with tissue and then throw it on the floor. The more modern cafes are not only nice in décor but serve good western often French food as well. This is what Singapore, KL and other capitals looked like in the 50s I supposes. There is already a non stop hustle of scooters and vehicles on the road where to cross the road is a great skill. For whatever reason the drivers there like to honk their horns at almost every opportunity. So not only do you get smoke pollution but also endless noise pollution. Slowly the western influences will creep in I am sure and eventually everything will become more orderly, Nike will conquer, Big Mac will enter the market and cinemas will entertain people, another 10 years or sooner it will look more like Bangkok. You can stay in Hanoi for a few days before the noise and the traffic will drive you crazy and after that it is time to take a 8 hour train trip to Sapa. Sapa is very much up north and in fact only a few km from China. In the late 70s when there was a a border conflict with China, china in fact invaded the Sapa before being driven out by the reknowned fighting spirit of the Vietnamese army. Don’t mess the Vietnamese army who have defeated the French, Americans and Chinese. Anywhere the reason why people go to the Sapa region for 3 reasons namely the scenery, the minority people that live there and the cool weather of the highlands. The scenery at Sapa and around there is beautiful with lots of rolling hills and valleys, stepped paddy fields, rice farms etc. Go in their winter season and the place can be often covered in clouds and when the stun does make its appearance and the clouds clear make sure you get the chance to admire the nice views before the clouds cover it up again. When the clouds and mist envelop the whole town, you can hardly see beyond 5 m at times in front of a vehicle or what’s in front of you as you walk. A whole building can disappear behind the mist. Needless to say if you enjoy the cold you will probably like that experience. Sapa is also the home region of the ethnic minority people of the Vietnam. Their dress code and their looks set them apart from the typical Vietnamese and the more prominent ones seem to be the black Hmong and flower Hmong people who still go about in their traditional clothing. They have been heavily influenced by the modern tourist and the black Hmong women and girls can be seen all over sapa trying to sell their products to the visitors. Be sure to make treks and visits to their village and markets like Bac Ha Sunday market if you want to see the ethnic people in their more natural setting and way of life as they go about I the hustle and bustle of a market that seems to sell all the essentials for living in the mountains. As I see the ethnic girls go about selling their products to the tourist, I cannot help but think what does the future hold for them. They do not seem to go to schools for education and they work tirelessly trying to earn a little money in even the biting cold from the tourist. What will they be doing in 5 years from now or 10 years from now. Can they survive in the progressing and more expensive world or will they change and adopt the ways of the modern people.

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Until Next Time Vietnam...

The cycling part of my last journal entry finished on somewhat of a sour note due to the fact that I had ingested more mountain dirt than food over the previous three days. However, I said that I would look forward to better days and fortunately they arrived sooner rather than later.When I hit the road again, the sensation of the super smooth surface beneath my wheels felt so unfamiliar that I thought that something was wrong with the King Brown. The sight of three lanes in each direction plus a shoulder wide enough to be another lane was equally unfamiliar, so much so that I thought that I must still be fast asleep and dreaming in my hotel bed. However, as per usual, the King Brown was running to perfection and I was well and truly awake with a feeling akin to that which a baseballer gets when he warms up with three bats and then goes out to bat with one; my legs felt lighter and the road passed beneath me with ease. Cycling had become enjoyable again.After a few days of these much improved conditions, I rolled into Mai Chau on the back of a 20km downhill. A town much like any other in rural Vietnam, Mai Chau sees its fair share of visitors due to the fact that the local White Thai tribes have opened their homes up to tourists as guesthouses. I found myself in a beautiful wooden and bamboo home complete with a balcony overlooking the vast rice fields in the valley below where local villagers toiled beneath the huge mountains towering above. The accommodation was authentic, meaning basic. My bed consisted of a mat on the floor of a large communal bamboo-floored room, but it came with all the creature comforts one needs including electricity and cold beer. In any case, I spent the majority of my time there lounging in the balcony hammock, which is the most under-utilised piece of furniture in the world, particularly in Oz where the climate just screams for them.For anyone feeling a bit stressed or suffering from anxiety, my suggestion would be to forget shrinks and prescription drugs and to buy a hammock and stretch out for half an hour a day because once snug in that cocoon, it is impossible to do anything but relax.I could have spent quite some time in such a chilled-out, slow-paced and downright beautiful environment, but i wanted to be in Hanoi for Christmas where I was to meet cousin Luke. Besides, I would be passing through this way again in not too long.Seeing Luke step out of his airport taxi after fumbling with all of his dong as he paid the driver, was fantastic. We gave eachother a typical awkward, manly, half-handshake, half-hug that put our inhibitions on display, went for some noodle soup and a much-needed chat and a laugh (it's ok, I made him give me a decent embrace a couple of days later in the street).With Luke just finishing another year at uni and me having been on the road for six months, we felt the need to celebrate and soon became creatures of the night, returning to our hotel at 7, 8, 9am and sleeping until dusk. This meant seeking out the pubs and clubs that remained open late, either defying local law or simply paying off those who enforced it. These establishments gave the outward appearance of being closed, but upon opening the door, one would find groups of rowdy, drunken backpackers playing jenga, seasoned travellers with blackened feet laying on cushions smoking sheesha while listening to Bob Marley or a bunch of baby boomer expats rocking out to a DVD of a live concert by The Who.Whatever the crowd, there was always a good night to be had.Christmas in Hanoi was somewhat of a non-event with a few decorations placed on shopfronts to gratify the tourists, so it was good to see that New Years was widely celebrated and done so in style. Luke and I ended up at Titanic, a floating nightclub in a beautiful setting on the Red River. In saying that, not much time was spent enjoying the scenery, at least not the type that didn't shake their stuff on the dance floor. It turned out to be a fantastic party; the music was pumping, there was plenty of dancing to be had and the crowd was a very friendly mix of Hanoians and Westerners. It was a great way to bring in the massive year of 2008!It also marked a turning point for Luke and I whereby we decided to try and get back to some kind of normality and see Hanoi during the light of day. This meant engaging in some slightly more tame, though no less enjoyable, activites such as visiting the botanical gardens and hiring a giant swan in which we pedalled around West Lake, something we both agreed was very romantic.I also used this recovery time to do something I haven't done in two years; get a haircut. So in true Vietnamese style, I sat out on the footpath looking into a mirror that leant against a concrete wall while my barber/bia hoi drinking buddy, Cuong, removed the locks I had worked so hard for. By the time it was over I looked like a cross between a paedophile on crimestoppers, a teenage goth and Prince Valiant, but what do you expect for $1?Finally, we decided it was time to take our leave from Hanoi where the weather over the previous two weeks had been overcast, grey and often downright cold, in search of sunshine and open spaces. Luke signed up for a tour of Halong Bay while I pedalled off in the direction of the Laos border. We met again 10kms from Mai Chau when I saw Luke hanging out of a bus window as it crawled past me on the steep incline of a mountain. I whizzed by it 15 minutes later going down the other side.Luke took to Mai Chau as much as I had, for this was his first sight of rural Vietnam, which is in total contrast to the urban parts of the country. As we sat on the patio enjoying a cold Tiger, he decided that we should climb one of the mountains that stood over us in the distance. He assured me that he could see a path leading to the top, though try as I might, I could see no such path, only dense jungle on steep mountain slopes.Regardless, the following day we set out under the midday sun and proceeded to climb Luke's path, that was in fact a dried creek bed. It ended up being a challenging though rewarding hike that provided great views over the plains below and the rolling hills beyond. We did have aspirations to reach the summit, but no matter how many times we walked for "just 15 more minutes" amongst foliage that was getting thicker and thicker, it never appeared to get any closer. So eventually, satisfied and buggered, we began the slippery descent.We parted ways again the next day as Luke stayed behind to attempt to buy a motorbike so that he could follow his dream of riding in front of me while I choked on his exhaust. We are still yet to meet up again and I'm not sure exactly where he is, but I know he successfully crossed the border on a moto because the Lao immigration officer had no problem with me going through his documents.After a couple of days of tough riding through the scorching hot mountainside where the jungle was as dense as anywhere I've been, I arrived at the tiny, little-used border town of Nam Xoi. The following morning, after four months or two-thirds of my entire time on tour, I farewelled Vietnam......................just as I was starting to get used to being constantly felt-up aswell.Perhaps it's the close living quarters or the tight family and community ties, but something I have noticed throughout my travels is that the people within these asian cultures are far more affectionate towards one another than those of us in the West. It is not uncommon to see two male friends walking down the street with their arms around one another or five crammed onto a bench that should really only seat three or two girls holding hands while riding their bicycles home from school. It is only in Vietnam however, that this physical affection has been extended to me, usually from men who have just had their daily quota of rice wine.It would start when they noticed my hairy arms, which they would all take turns to stroke and compare to their own hairless limbs. They would then move down to my calves and thighs, which would be cause for particular excitement if they knew I was a cyclist. They would give them a firm, tight squeeze and make strange grunting noises. If I was lucky, that would be the extent of the encounter that left me feeling like some exotic animal in a petting zoo. If not, I would soon find hands reaching down my shirt to caress the curls of my hairy chest.Even after the initial excitement, hands would linger and it would not be uncommon for me to be sitting around a table, being practically forced to down shots of rice wine (just what I needed at 9am to wash down my breakfast before a big ride) while the man next to me stroked my thigh beneath my shorts.There will be things I will miss about Vietnam and there will definitely be things I won't, this experience encompasses both sides of that spectrum.Most notably, what I will miss is the amazingly diverse scenery and the equally diverse inhabitants of these places, from beautiful, white-sand beaches to lush, thick, green jungle to vast rice plains to enormously overbearing mountains to the absolutely unique characteristics of The Gulf of Tonkin. It truly has been second to none for the tour and I am so thankful that I've had the opportunity to experience it all on such an intimate level.Goodbye Vietnam.

Hoa Lu - Tam Coc- full day

Hoa Lu, 100 km south of Hanoi, was the capital city of Vietnam under the Dinh Dynasty between AD 968 and AD 980. Some of the sanctuaries and tombs have survived the countless years and can still be visited today. Apart from the historical aspects, the area is also one of astounding natural beauty with limestone peaks whose splendor is often said to surpass that of Ha Long Bay. It is true that this area is often referred to as the Ha Long Bay on land. The tour includes being rowed along the Boi River, which makes for a truly unforgettable experience, passing between towering limestone peaks.Price: Joined group tour : Daily - U$ 20/ personIncludes: Transport, boat trip, entrance fee, lunch and guide.ITINERARY:Hoa Lu used to be one of the many old capitals of Vietnam before Thang Long – presently Hanoi – take its historical role. From an exciting town and centre of cultural and military activities of the Dai Co Viet Kingdom in 10th century, the area now is more wellknown for its landscape since almost relics of the urban excitement had been collapsed, except in the Temples of King Dinh and King Le. A trip to Hoa Lu should be started from Tam Coc ("three caves"), which takes more than two hours driving from Hanoi, and visitors may say that distance is not a matter after seating in a boat rowed by one or two local persons in Hoang Long river and see the first limestone mountains, which will run along their riverway for several kilometers. The boat will run, sorry, will be rowed, through three caves on the river, all created by wind and water from a legend time, while the sea had occupied this area. The tide-mark is still on the rock about 2m above the water, and in higher mountainwall the erosion have carved some strange shapes that now filled of green grass, delicious foods of the goats that local people breed everywhere. If you are lucky, sometimes you can see mischievous monkeys. The river trip is wonderful for photo hunters, especially when local people come to harvest the water rice planted along the river, or when they transplant some seedling for the next crops. The tourists often compare the place with Guilin – China, or more closely, to the limestone islets of Halong Bay in the Tonkin Gulf for their similar geological structures and shapes. Thus Tam Coc is also called Halong-Bay-On-Land.From the wharf of Tam Coc you can go further till reaching Bich Dong Pagoda, a combination of three pagodas on the Lower, Middle and Upper levels of a pretty mountain. You will need to climb a little bit till you get to the top of the Upper pagoda and your eyes catch the overall panorama of the paddy fields between Truong Yen mountain. All the pagodas, or lean upon a cliff, or simply have some statues inside a large grotto, deserve the name "Bich Dong" (emerald-like grotto). A scene of the popular French movie "Indochine" had been completed here in 1991, remarking a rush of the French-speaking tourists to Vietnam, who usually do not skip Halong Bay and Tam Coc-Bich Dong where the leading actress Catherine Deneuve left her footprints. On the way back from Tam Coc – Bich Dong to Hanoi you can pay a visit to the last relics of the ancient capital Hoa Lu – the Temples dedicated to King Dinh and King Le, the two heroes who lived in 10th century and chose Hoa Lu to build the citadel of the capital city. From time to time, archaeologists have excavated buried parts of this citadel with rusty weapons and ceramics. The temples are said to be built on the old foundation of their original palaces in 11-12th centuries and restored in 17th century. Though the temples are not maintained entirely some precious antiques are still preserved well like the whole-stone dragon thrones, wooden bas-relieves and lacquered statues of King Dinh, Kinh Le, Queen Duong Van Nga who in turn got married both of the kings, and the princes of the two dynasties Low Season (5th May - 31st August)Size of Group 1 2 3 4 - 5 6 - 7 8 pax upCost/pax (USD) 180 120 95 80 65 50High Season (1st Sep - 4th May)Size of Group 1 2 3 4 - 5 6 - 7 8 pax upCost/pax (USD) 198 132 105 88 72 55Tour type: PrivateDeparture: Every dayInclusive: Transportation (private car/mini van), Boat, Entrance fees, Speaking guide (English or French), LunchExclusive: Drinks, Insurance, Personal expenses, Tips

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Vietnam Activities and Sports

Art Galleries can be found in all the main centres in the country and there are some very worthwhile pieces being produced as well as some pieces from old Vietnamese masters on display in many of the bigger cities such as Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.Entertainment Vietnam is not the place to go for the latest in nightspots, but a number of large hotels have nightclubs and dance halls. Bars are fairly easy to find, even in smaller hotels. Try asking the locals for the current popular spots.Beach Volleyball is rapidly increasing in popularity and Ho Chi Minh City is the place where the National tournament is held. If you want to join in, most beaches in and around the cities will have games going on, especially in the late afternoons...and many teams are only too happy to let visitors join in for a game or two.Bowling (Ho Chi Minh City) Saigon Superbowl located at 43A Truong Son, Tan Binh District is the place to go for this excellent family entertainment Give them a call on: 84+8+885 0188 ext 20 or go there or visit the Bowling Centre located at 285B Cach Mang Thang Tam, District 10. Their telephone number is: Tel : 84+8+864 3784Boat Trips These are particularly popular in the Mekong Delta, Vietnam's southernmost region, which consists of an intricate network of rice paddies, swamps and forests interlaced with canals and rivers. River cruises also operate on the Saigon River (a good way to see Saigon) or the Perfume River (near Hue).Billiards -"Bi Da"-is popular throughout the country and most hotels have at least one table but if not you'll discover venues scattered throughout every city and a few of the outlying villages. It's a pleasant way to get to meet the locals and they are always ready to take on newcomers for a challenging game.Caving enthusiasts may head for the spectacular Pong Nha river caves, northwest of Dong Hoi or other mountainous areas around the country. It is advised that one doesn't venture into a cave without a guide as many are not properly monitored and it's not unknown for intrepid explorers to get lost and never return. Ask at a local tour centre for more information on this activity.Cinemas Unless you speak the local language there are few films shown in English, but occasionally there are and these will have sub-titles in the local lingo. If you want to see a film, it's best to ask at the ticket counter, if the movie is in your preferred language.Cycling Vietnam is ideal for long-distance cycling as much of the country is flat and the shortage of vehicles makes for light traffic. Caution is needed, however, especially on busier roads, as traffic can be very undisciplined. Bicycle hire is widely available.Diving Vietnam is becoming an increasingly well-known diver's paradise. The number of resorts is increasing at a fast pace. By far the most popular at this point in time though are Danang and Nha Trang. Unfortunately though, due to the over-fishing of Vietnam’s waters you won’t see vast schools of fish but rather individuals or smaller numbers. The fish are there though. Wreck diving isn’t really available due to the value of metal in the country anything that sinks is soon salvaged and put to other uses on land. On the other hand the corals flourish and the colours and varieties of both soft and hard corals is spectacular.Elephant Riding can be done in Dalat at Tuyen Lake and is a wonderful way to view the surrounding scenery. Hash House Harriers If you like running (and drinking beer...though not at the same time) then join in one of the HHH fun runs. It's a great way to get to meet the locals and a good way to discover parts of Ho Chi Minh City that you didn't know existed. Contact John Bennet on 842 0594 or 845 7594 for more information on this social activity or go and meet them at the Caravelle Hotel every Sunday at 2:30 p.m.Golf is as popular in Vietnam as it is in many other countries around the world and there are a number located around the country. Dalat and Phan Thiet have some of the better-known courses. Many are designed by world internationally recognised golfers such as the Ocean Dunes Golf Club located in Phan Thiet which was designed by Nick Faldo.Hiking There is good hiking in the beautiful countryside around Da Lat. Guides are recommended and can be hired locally. generally, the northwest is the best region for hiking. Other good destinations include Cuc Phuong National Park (near Hanoi); Bach Ma National Park; and Lang Bian Mountain (in Da Lat), where guides are compulsory. In the north, Cat Ba National Park on Cat Ba Island and Ba Be Lake National Park (which contains several lakes, waterfalls and caves) also offer beautiful scenery.Horse Riding is a popular sport in Vietnam and in fact the country has its own special breed called the Vietnamese Hmong Horse. There are many places that rent out animals either to go on short out-rides along a beach or through the local countryside or on long treks through rugged mountain ranges.Kayaking can be done in many spots throughout the country. Some of the better known sareas are to be found in the picturesque Halong Bay area though some other coatal and riverine areas also offer this gentle waterborne activity. It's a great way to see coastal fauna and flora and all but the smallest family members will enjoy a day out on the water in a canoe.Martial Arts is one sport that every second person in Vietnam seems to enjoy, either being involved in the sport itself or watching. There are numerous varieties practiced here from Laido, Kendo, Karate, Judo, Tae Kwando, Jui Jitsu amongst many others. To either view these sports or partake in the activities, your best bet is to go to open parkland areas in either the early morning or evening when many folk practice in the open air or contact a local sports club or martial arts centre within the area you plan on visiting.Museums abound in Vietnam and there is hardly a city or village that doesn't boast at least one such venue.Opera and Theatre A visit to Vietnam is hardly a visit if one doesn't go to at least one stage production while here. All the cities have a theatre and it's best to ask the local tour information at your hotel for information on what productions are currently showing and the prices etc.Parachuting is a great way to view the surrounding scenery where no one and nothing can interupt your view. There are a number of centres offering this activity such as Dalat, Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City. Ask at your hotel or the local tourist information centre for more details.Sailing is one way to escape the bustle of the city and enjoy the wind in your hair while relaxing on deck with the family. The Nha Trang Sailing Club offers boat trips and can be found at 72 Tran Phu St. Nha Trang. Give them a call on 84.058 826528 for more information. (Most sailing is done on motorised vessles not yachts as the latter are few and far between in Vietnam.) Sepak Takraw is a relatively new sport in Vietnam though popular in countries such as Thailand. It involves kicking a ball, made of woven bamboo shoots (or more recently plastic), over a net. It is growing in popularity and is now part of the South East Asian (SEA) Games.Swimming If you aren't near a beach there are a number of public swimming pools located in most of the bigger towns or at the hotels and resorts. If your hotel doesn't have one, ask at a hotel nearby as some let the general public in for a nominal fee or ask the concierge at your hotel where a public pool is.Surfing is on the rise here and there are a number of places that rent out boards (though it's always better to bring your own). Nha Trang is a popular spot and boards can be rented in Tran Phu. Telephone 829100 (Hon Tam) for more information or call the Khanh Hoa Tourist Board besides the Vien Dong Hotel on 822753.Ten Pin Bowling can be done at many establishments in Vietnam. Saigon has a huge one with 32 lanes called the Saigon Superbowl, but there are many others scattered around the country such as in Hanoi. Ask at your hotel or the local information centre for more details.Trails and Trekking Visitors interested in the Vietnam War can walk part of the Ho Chi Minh Trail, a series of roads, trails and paths used as supply routes by the North Vietnamese during the war. It ran from North Vietnam southward through the Truong Son Mountains and into western Laos. The claustrophobic network of tunnels used by villagers and guerrillas during the war at Cu Chi (35km/22 miles from Saigon) and Vinh Moc can also be visited. There are numerous other trekking trails throughout Vietnam and your local tour office or hotel will be able to fill you in on this enjoyable pastime.Watersports In total, Vietnam has 3260km (2021 miles) of coastline. The most popular beaches are Vung Tau, just north of the Mekong Delta; and Nha Trang, near Da Lat, where the clear, turquoise waters offer good snorkelling and scuba diving. Snorkelling and diving equipment can be hired at most beach resorts. Other good beaches can be found at Phan Thiet (south-central coast); Mui Ne (noted for its large sand dunes); and the magnificent Ha Long Bay, where some 3000 islands, covered in lush vegetation and dotted with beaches and grottos, rise out of the Gulf of Tonkin. Acces to the islands is by boats, which can be hired in Ha Long City.Windsurfing is a great way to spend a day out on the ocean waves or on one of the larger lakes in the country. Phan Thiet is one of the more popular venues as is Nha Trang. Boards can be rented in a number of places and the Full Moon Beach Resort in Phan Thiet has a few for hire or can steer you in the right direction to a place closer to your location. Give them a call on (84) 62 847 008 for more information. Another reasonable spot is Vungtau but it's only real plus as a windsurfing spot is its proximity to Ho Chi Minh City.

Friday, October 10, 2008

Week eleven - Ko Phi Phi - Phuket - Singapore - Perth

Ko Phi Phi left me and the Great Scottish Girlies weak, tired, skint and looking forward to leaving. The island is essentially beautiful but the people are miserable, the infrastructure post Tsunami poor with smelly drains, the night life abismal and far too many noisy fellow travellers. Luckily on our last day, after we had recovered from the poisoning, we were able to go on our snorkelling trip. The sea was crystal clear, the sunset amazing and the fish weren't shy either. I was woken on the 4th night by what seemed like maurauding teenagers, drunk of course, after taking advantage of the free buckets at Tiger Bar. My stay ended with a CRUNCH: my foot up until my knee had gone through the floorboard. I had visions of my leg dangling in someone's room but luckily my toe had stubbed the hillside.I said goodbye to my fellow travellers, thanked them for a great time and felt guilty and resonsible for the poisoning. Yes is was me who chose the ill-fated restaurant because one of the hunky Australians from the ferry journey from hell was having his dinner in there. Phuket was a dump and the hotel which had featured in the Beach so noisy that not even my ear plugs kept out the din.Singapore as expected was high rise, hot, clean and sterile. It took me quite a while to find somewhere to stay and ended up in a Catholic run hostel so that night I said my hail Mary's and went to bed early. I was a complete girl on my first day and hit the Orchard Road for shops: Top Shop, Karen Millen, Gap, French Connection and M and S. It was heavenly seeing fashionable items again after the fakes of Asia and the naff Thai trousers and sarongs. It was mega expensive compared to home so I didn't actually buy anything. On the second day I was up early and out to see Chinatown and the quayside financial area on a small boat trip. I avoided Little India after sill being traumatised by starring Indian men and their equally scary moustaches.My welcome to Australia by the customs official was the best yet. "So you are on a two month holiday" he asked me to which I replied "yes" and to which he said "Good on ya" as he handed back my passport. What a lovely welcome. By the time I reached One World Backpackers it was 3am so it wasn't easy climbing into the upper bunk without waking up the 7 other people in the dorm. In the morning I was perturbed to discover that I was in the boys dorm and it smelt of boys but happy too that there were two other girls in there with me.Perth seems like home but that is probably beacause most people at the backpackers are English or Irish. We went out on Saturday night for a big one to celebrate Liam's 21st and then went to the beach at Scarborough on Sunday to laze in the Autumn sun which is just as hot as a summer day back home. Having said that it is cold here at night and it is strange being so cold again after the heat of Asia. On Sunday we joined in on the Australian culture of going out drinking on a Sunday and boy where they out in force. I was out with the boys for Liam's birthday weekender and had another good night out around Northbridge. Luckily everyone thinks that I am about 27 so they don't feel like granny had come out for the evening!

Sun bathing in Nha Trang

The journey to Nha Trang was a bit of a trek. We left Hoi An fairly early in a taxi, to Danang, about 45 minutes north of Hoi An. We then embarked on a train journey which should have taken about 7 ½ hours, but actually ended up taking about 12 hours. We were traveling in the first class seats, but these are not the most comfortable of places to spend 12 hours. We also had no where to put all of our luggage and ended up with most of it under our feet. The price of the ticket also included some form of food. I did remove the foil lids from all of the little pots on my tray, but only indulged in the rice, which I thought was pretty safe, where as the rest of the pots I could not be at all sure about! There was also a young child sat in front of us, who was asleep when we got on the train. However after a couple of hours, he woke up and needed to go to the toilet. His mother did not wish to take him to the toilet and instead produced an empty water bottle from somewhere which the young boy proceeded to pee into, through a conveniently cut hole through his trousers (he later used the hole for others things but I will leave that to your own imagination)! This was bad enough, but then she placed the now half full bottle under the seat around my feet! We then had a few hours of the boy playing around in and around his seat and playing hide-n-seek with us, which passed a bit of time. This did however get a little boring after a while and myself and Jeff did have to go for a wonder to find the bar!Anyway, after a very long day we eventually arrived in Nha Trang, where we were met by a very small taxi and a guy on a moped to take us to our hotel. I hoped in the taxi with the girls and all the luggage whilst Jeff hoped onto the moped! We were not entirely sure that we were going to see him again, but he pulled up at the hotel about 30 seconds behind us with a big grin on his face telling us that he had had a great time.Compared to Hue or Hoi An, Nha Trang has very little charm. It has basically grown into a sea side beach result, catering for watersports and a reasonably good night life. It’s a good place to be for a few days, lying on the beach and exploring the good bars in the evening. We basically ended up spending a long weekend in Nha Trang. Friday was spent lying on the beach at the sailing club, which is a pretty nice place to find yourself. The beach was a very nice long sandy beach, but the waves were a bit rough for swimming or bodysurfing unless you are an expert in this field. So of course that meant the myself and Jeff felt that we should give it a go. This was all great fun even if we did get a few bruises in the process and have to empty out about 2kg of sand from the lining of my swimming shorts!The following day we decided to take a boat trip around some of the surrounding islands. The trip was run by a company called T M Brothers, which basically turned out to be to local clowns calling themselves the Trouble Maker Brothers. Anyway, it seemed like a bit of a laugh, and after a bit of snorkeling and jumping / diving off of the boat, it was time for a very good lunch, before the live entertainment on board the boat started. To the delight of everyone the entertainment consisted of the brothers and the rest of the crew turning into a band and covering an incredibly large number of decent old records. The drum kit was made up of a washing up bowl, some form of large water drum and another bowl of some sort and was surprisingly effective. Part way through the performance another boat came alongside and this oldish guy steps onto our boat and proceeds to entertain everyone with some form of crazy dancing. This whole crazy, funny and kind of surreal experience made us all feel that we were really getting decent value out of the trip. We then had what they described as ‘happy hour’. This basically involved one of the T M Brothers getting into some form of raft (attached to the boat by a rope as the currents are quite strong) with a bucket of bottles of wine. Everyone then jumped into the water with a life ring of some description and went and held onto the floating bar or each other, so as not to drift away. They the proceed to pour the most revolting wine down your neck. A very amusing experience.That evening we had arranged to meet everyone from the boat trip at the sailing club. On the way to the sailing club, we went out for a pretty good meal. It was on leaving the restaurant that Jeff had his first encounter of the evening. Basically he had walked over to the other side of the road, to check something out, so I was left walking down the road with the three women. At this point a young boy of no more than about 12, comes riding up on a bike which was far to big for him and I think the conversation went something as follows:Young Boy: ’Three lovely lady…you lucky man’Graham: ‘Yes I am!”Young Boy: ‘You big banana’Graham: ‘What?’ (In dis-belief at what I’ve just heard from a 12 year old)Young Boy: ‘You big banana’Graham: ‘Thanks…would’nt you like to know’ (still in shock)At this point Jeff rejoins the group:Young Boy: ‘He you friend?’Graham: ‘Yes’Young Boy: ‘He no lady…he small banana’At this point everyone else is in hysterics.Jeff: ‘What?!’Young Boy: ‘You small banana…you lady boy!’Jeff: ‘I don’t think so!’Young Boy: ‘Yes…you no lady…you lady boy’As he says this, he proceeds to basically feel in between Jeff’s legs to check out his claim.Young Boy: ‘Yes…no banana…you lady boy!’We then tried to explain to the boy what a lady boy was and that perhaps he himself was a lady boy. He assured us though that he was no lady boy and wanted to take the three ladies to a hotel room and give them all twins, which we thought was quiet impressive. Anyway, we eventually got away from this ‘young stallion’ and found our way to the sailing club where a good night was had by all.It was on the way back to the hotel when Jeff had his second unfortunate incident of the evening. It basically involved him being propositioned, felt up for the second time that night and then effectively chased by a transvestite or two at three in the morning. A highly amusing scene I can assure you!Sunday was spent in a similar fashion to a typical Sunday at home. Getting up late, feeling a little, scruffy, wondering around trying to get some fresh air. Then sitting in a bar, drinking plenty of soft drinks, eating some good food and reading the papers. We had eventually recovered in time to catch our night train to Ho Chi Minh City. All in all a fairly good weekend.

Sunday, October 5, 2008

Bored In Bangkok

We're still in Bangkok and beginning to tire of city life a little now. So much so that we have booked ourselves into a hotel with a pool so we can lie in the sun for a few days before heading to Vietnam. Maybe we should have bitten the bullet and gone for the express visa? We thought about going up to Chang Mai for a few days but the trains were fully booked with all but 3rd class standing remaining. As it's a 12 hour journey it wasn't really a viable option.So what have we been up to? Well we spent a wonderful evening with Aaron and Wayne who were proud as punch to show us around their new apartment and complex, complete with pool and gym. I hope they don't think I am condecending when I write this ....but they are 2 of nicest people I have ever met and make a lovely couple.We have been to Wat Po which is one of the oldest and largest temples in Bangkok, and the only one I have also visited on my 2 previous visits. The sight of the huge reclining Buddha at 46 metres long never fails to impress me. We also took the river ferry to Wat Arun. The river ferries are another cheap way to get about with a ticket costing 15baht (25p) for any length journey.We feel like locals now in the city and Steve says he knows the way around Bangkok better than he does Nottingham!We took a day trip to Kanchanaburi and took a look around the JEATH musuem. (Japan, England, America, Australia & Holland) The musuem has documents, articles and photographs on how the 415km railway was built and exhibits the empty shell of the bomb that blew up the bridge over river Kwai. It is estimated that 16,000 POW's and 100,000 forced labourers from Thailand, Burma, Malaysia and Indonesia died in building the bridge and railway. It was all very thought provoking, very sad indeed, and the cemetery even more so.After lunch we drove a further 60 minutes to the tiger temple. I had been really looking forward to being up close with the big cats and was distraught when the guide informed me the tigers get aggressive when they see the colour red or orange. Go on, guess what colour top I had on?Yup........red. A quick visit to a non tourist market stall soon sorted that, and I bought myself the only t-shirt that fitted me, in a lovely lime green, NOT! It was still skin tight but beggars can't be chosers. The tigers ended up being the hi-light of my week. As you can see from the photos I was in my element. The tigers are raised on a vegetation diet as to make them non aggressive, and after lunch when they are sleepy is when the monks allow photos to be taken with them. It is all strictly supervised so no-one comes to any harm.Steve has lost over 6kg in weight since starting traveling whereas I have put weight on. He says I starve him, I say it's the rubbish diet he had in the UK. Either way his clothes are hanging off of him but he looks great. That leads me on nicely to the fact he is constantly propositioned, I think the ladies and the ladyboys like his size and height.Steve here........Speaking of Ladyboys, we decided to go and see for ourselves if we could tell the difference by booking to see the Ladyboys Calipso show at the Asia Hotel, and what a top show it was. I'm still not sure now if I can tell the difference between the guys and the girls, in the 50 or so strong cast. We have posted a few pictures so you can judge for yourselves, some of the girls were stunning but all in all it was a great evenings entertainment.

Wednesday, October 1, 2008

Vietnam Transport

Vietnam TransportBy Air to/from Vietnam Vietnam Airlines operates international flights to/from the following destinations: Amsterdam, Bangkok, Berlin, Dubai, Frankfurt, Guangzhou, Hong Kong, Jakarta, Kaohsiung, Kuala Lumpur, Los Angeles, Manila, Melbourne, Moscow, Osaka, Paris, Phnom Penh, Seoul, Siep Riem (Angkor Wat), Singapore, Sydney, Taipei and Vientiane.TIP: Fares are significantly lower for those flying to Ho Chi Minh City. Although flights are available from the capitals of most Southeast Asian countries as well as from Sydney and Melbourne. The best place is from Bangkok as visas are easiest to obtain there.Airport Tax International airport tax is US$14. The airport tax for domestic flights is VND 30'000 (in some cases VND 15'000). Remember to leave enough money for the International Departure Tax if you're flying out of Vietnam. They prefer dollars to Dong at Saigon airport - the exchange rate is extortionate if you're paying in Dong!Domestic FlightsIt is much easier and safer to travel between cities by plane and buy your tickets in Vietnam as they are cheaper. Most routes have a daily flight and are easily available and booking isn’t necessary.Northern Airport Flight Service has helicopter flights to Ha Long Bay. There are 2 flights per week at 8:00 and 15:30 on Saturday, departing from Gia Lam Airport in Hanoi (not the international airport). You can get the tickets at the Metropolitan HotelNha Trang has daily flights to/from Ho Chi Minh City.National Airport Code CityBMV Ban Me ThuotDAD DanangDIN Dien Bien PhuDLI DalatHAN HanoiHPH Hai PhongHUI HueNHA Nha TrangPQC Phu QuocPXU PleikuSGN Ho Chi Minh CitySQH Na SanVIH Qui NhonVII VinhVKG Rach Gia * Airlines * Vietnam Airlines (International) 116-118 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Ho Chi Minh City. Tel (08) 292118 * Vietnam Airlines (Domestic) 27b Nguyen Dinh Chieu St. Ho Chi Minh City. Tel (08) 299980 * Air France Dong Khoi and Le Loi St. (Caravelle Hotel), Ho Chi Minh City . Tel (08) 241278 * Aeroflot 4H Le Loi St. Ho Chi Minh City. Tel (08) 93489 * Thai 116 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Ho Chi Minh City Tel (08) 292118 * Philippine Airlines Ho Chi Minh City Tel (08) 292200 * MAS116 Nguyen Hue Blvd., Ho Chi Minh City Tel (08) 30695 BicyclesIt is fun to rent a bicycle and to ride around. Rates are around US$ 2 for a day. It is also possible to buy bicycles and even mountain bikes, but beware of the quality. Maintenance is widely available, but original spare parts are rare. Instead, any spare part that "fits" will be used.BoatsThere are some boats between the mainland of Vietnam and the islands. Rach Gia to/from Phu Quoc takes 6 to 10 hours and costs around VND 90000. Officially, it should leave every day at 8 am in Rach Gia and at 10 am in An Thui. In reality it waits until there are enough passengers. This can mean day...so be prepared. Ha Tien to/from Phu Quoc This is officially not allowed, since the boat crosses Cambodian waters so if you catch one of these the risk is your own as to whether you get put behind bars for your efforts or not. Vung Tao to/from Con Dao There is a boat between Vung Tao and the island Con Dao. One way takes about 13 hours.Buses Traveling by road from Cambodia is a slow and expensive alternative to flying. The bus system runs almost everywhere within the country, with stations built around the country dividing the territory into regions. For longer trips buses tend to be slow and unreliable it is therefore generally advised that travelers fly in instead. Nha Trang/Ho Chi Minh City Express and regular buses link Nha Trang with Ho Chi Minh City; express buses take about 12 hours.Mini Buses It is possible to rent a minibus if you so desire and if there are a few of you, it possibly works out to be a cheaper way of getting around the country, though risky, due to the high number of accidents in Vietnam.CyclosAn excellent way to tour any city in Vietnam is to rent a cyclo. Rates start from around VND 15000 to VND 30000 for a ride of up to 10 minutes in Saigon. Locals pay half that price. You can also get a tour of one hour for US$1. In Hanoi prices are more related to the distance and are a bit more expensive. Each town seems to have it’s own price structure, so ask around to get some idea at the time.TIP: Make sure that you hold onto any belongings when traveling in a cyclo as passing motorists and the like have been known to grab these as they pass.The routes a cyclo may use is being limited by the government because they cause traffic congestion, so what seems to be a short trip could in fact become quite a long one because of having to take an indirect route, especially in Ho Chin Minh City.Hire CarsCar rentals are currently not in existence. Cabs, which are unmarked cars without meters, can typically be rented for the day. The rates are about US$25 to US$150 (depending on the car, the place you rent it from, the region and your bargaining skills). As with any form of transport in Vietnam, driving is a risk you take due to the high accident rate in the country.Motorbike hireIt's easy to rent a motorcycle to get around. Usual rates are US$4 to US$7 for a day for a 50 cc to 100 cc Honda or Yamaha. If you rent a motorbike, make sure that you don't leave your passport with them and that in the contract they don't overcharge. Buy a big lock and chain as the motorbike theft rate is VERY high.If you are in a hurry, you can try to flag down a motorcycle for a ride on the back (most drivers are not adverse to making a bit of extra money) or ask a local to find a Honda ong (motorbike taxi) for you. The biggest problem is explaining the destination to the driver because pronunciation is everything in Vietnamese. Carry a pen and paper or a map.TIP: As in many Asian countries the standard of driving, to say the least, is atrocious and at times it will seem as if every vehicle on the road is going in the opposite direction to you. It is therefore generally advised that unless you are both a very experienced driver with a good medical insurance or a risk-taker, it’s NOT ADVISABLE to rent a motorbike at all.Ships and FerriesThere are no official passenger services. Travelers may be able to ride on a cargo ship to Ho Chi Minh City, Danang or Haiphong from Hong Kong, Japan, Thailand, Singapore or France. Check with the local shipping and travel agencies for rates and availability.A ferry service runs from Cambodia to Chau Doc in the Mekong Delta.TrainsThere are currently no train lines running between Vietnam and its neighbouring countries. The Vietnamese railway system runs from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi along the coast and links with Haiphong and the regions further north. Odd-numbered trains travel south and even-numbered trains travel north.The fastest trains take at least 28 hours from Ho Chi Minh City to Hanoi. Reservations should be made a day or more in advance. The major setback to the railways is that tourists are charged many times more than Vietnamese people in the form of an outrageously high surcharge. For long distance traveling, it is best to fly.Nha Trang Express trains run to/from both Ho Chi Minh City and Hanoi.Please note that the above time schedules and prices are subject to change and are therefore intended only as a guide.